Goodbye Cassiopeia Class

The handprint art was taken down off the wall and the stickers were all handed out. Yesterday was my last day teaching my little loves in Cassiopeia class, I can't believe the year is over.

It was so hard to watch them go today after they took off their rented mini cap and gowns. Tears and smiles and lots of hugs, still a few tears happening in my case as I write this.

I've learned so much this year, it feels like more often than not that I've been the student and not the teacher. From vowels to randomly too complicated science projects to unidentifiable school lunches to Beatlemania... it's been quite an experience.

Here's some Hello Goodbye footage of our goodbye song before Je hee and Joo Young left a few weeks ago...






And of course, the most important lesson of all...


Lastly, this is a quick video I took during Cassiopeia class' last day together. There's some Gi Hyun dance dance revolution and Da Yeon being uncharacteristically shy and non-talkative...





This journey is finished, mission success. No more bells and "Teacher why?"s, aishhh I miss them so much already.

~.~ Ella Teacher

Free time on a Friday in my classroom

I recently found out I have a b-boy in my class, Gi Hyun is the most amazing little guy- with such unbridled spasming talent! We have free time in the afternoons so I let them all do their thing. It's my last month with them, so we're having as much fun as possible.

This is a must see....LOL!


http://kr.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe4iaAhrx_U

Priceless Moments at Jjimjilbang

Ysonghay (pronounced "ee-song-hay" =awkward), no word in any language could quite capture the absurdity of my evening yesterday... and yet it was equally endearing.

Headed to my regular jjbang spot after a cold and blustery day of brunch and ice tiptoe-heel walking with the plan of getting scrubbed and massaged. Little did I know that an even greater treat awaited me. I waddled into Chereville (my jjbang) and paid for my locker key, took a good ten minutes to de-layer myself and walked into the shower/bath house. I had just placed my wrist tag number on the scrub wait list and waltzed over to the showers, and was in a hurry to shower down so I could get warm in the baths. It was so jam-packed as it was Lunar New Year's Eve and a Saturday that I had to stand ass-naked waiting in full view of about 60 Korean women and children.



Finally, got a shower and then...... tap tap tap went a finger on my bare bum and a high voice squealed "Ellllllllllaaaa Teacherrrrrrrrrrr!" I slowly turned around to find my favorite little pain in the butt (pun unintended), Won Je hee, smiling up at me. I stumbled over my words and stutterred "Jee Jee Jee- Je Hee." It was so bizarre to see such a familiar face on top of a very naked child's body. I see her everyday and she's like family but this was definitely, YSONGHAY! My first reaction was to hug her and I bent down only to realize that I was so naked and that would be so inappropriate so I quickly redirected my hands to her little face.

I was so happy to see her and it wasn't so terribly strange but I wanted to normalize it as much as possible and not make her feel like there was anything wrong with the human body. Having a western physique, I am noticeably different and stand out, but to her it was like a whole other thing. She walked me, hand in hand, over to her mother who was in the first of the baths and she just about died of mortification. Here we were, surrounded in an environment that we normally were very comfortable and not self-conscious in, but suddenly very aware of how very very naked we were.

I don't know how it just worked but instead of covering myself, which I think would be the most typical reaction, I just acted casually and slowly stepped into the bath. We talked for ages, attempting to have a broken English heart to heart and all the while gingerly adjusting our bodies deeper into the water so as not to have nipples and bits in plain sight.


Only in Korea, could you run the risk of your students seeing you naked (and their mother too). I braved it and it was actually, so fine. After getting scrubbed, I went in to the jjbang area (the saunas) and met up with the whole family. They bought me an orange and some ice cream. It was very sweet, still a tad awkward, but sweet.

Je hee was the most timid I've ever seen her to be although she was still just as inquisitive as ever. At first I thought it was because she was marveling at how different my body is but then I realized it was more that we are out of the typical "English" environment and we were in a Korean setting, she wasn't prepared to be around with me. She never-the-less followed me around like a puppy and would seek me out in every room/massage chair.

Eventually, after running around with her brother, she found me in the Himalayan salt jjbang room and she laid down next to me, placing her head in the crook of my arm. Chit-chatting ensued and I asked her what her favorite thing was this past year and without hesitation she retorted, "Ella."
I could've just died right there, it was so genuine and loving. It was the first non-dramatic remark I've heard her utter and it was the most profoundly touching thing I've heard. Right on cue, her brother ran in and shouted, "Kaja! (let's go) and they were off. "Goodbye Ella Teacher," they shouted in unison, which made me blush as all the relaxing people stared at me startled.

I just laid back down and closed my eyes, smiling through the fifth round of awkwardness. I found myself thinking about the fact that I had no clue what coming to Korea meant when I arrived and I may very well be puzzled by it for many years but I now know one thing for certain. This child, this little sprite of spunk, Je hee, is undoubtedly one of the reasons I came. I love her so much and she has taught me more then I think I've taught her.

At the moment, I find myself chuckling with curiosity at what Je hee is going to share at circle time next week... "I saw Ella Teacher at jjimjilbang and I saw her boobies." I wouldn't put it past her, she's keen on consistently asking me the word for breasts, haha and she'll repeat the word "boobies" to herself quietly for a few minutes afterwards. Ha! O well, here's to little sisterhoods across the globe that see through awkward moments and to the word "boobies."

Butterfinger Pancakes

AH yes Butterfinger Pancakes, the elusive, the breakfast spot that's at the top of everyone's Must Eat At List but no one EVER knows how to get there!

So........ Butterfinger pancakes is located up the hill from the Galleria. Take Subway Line 3 to Apgujeong Station,go out exit 2, spin around and do not walk in the direction that you come out of... Wag down a taxi and head to Hak-dong Saggori. Cab fare is only 1900w unless you want to walk 20 minutes, pass the Galleria and turn up an uber-steep hill (across from the fish-scale front Galleria building facade/Louis Vuitton).

The big ass King Kong on the left side of the hill (up from the Galleria) is your landmark. Get out, cross over to that side of the street and walk up the alleyway in between the King Kong and the Burger King. Butterfingers is on your left about a minute up the alley.

You may have a bit of a wait but just peruse the menu and be ready to order once you've got a seat, saves time and helps the grumblies in the tumblies. Yes, I just referenced Winnie the Pooh, but it's justifiable- they have honey vanilla whipped butter as an option with your pancakes. They have ginger pecan pancakes! They have fresh strawberry ground shakes! They have ridiculous desserts and.....

drum
roll
please

*********** THEY ARE OPEN UNTIL 3AM!!!! YES!

Additionally, I asked the waitress to write down the phone number in case you're utterly fucked like I was today and can't find the Butterfinger Pancake haven of Apgujeong...

02-3448-1070

Ala Beck's Guero, I say, "Please ENJOY!"





P.S. A thank you to all my fellow Seoul dwellers who answered their texts/calls to help me navigate my way to this brunch. Happiness would not have been mine if it had not been for you! (aka Alicia, Julian, Chad, Patrick, and Chris) xoxo

For more info and pics check out another ex-pat's blog about Butterfinger Pancakes at:
http://thedailykimchi.blogspot.com/2006/10/butterfinger-pancakesbreakfast-in.html

Aiding and Abetting Internationally

At the end of a traveling excursion, or rather, every time I move apartments/cities/countries/continents, I have a paper trail longer than my time on the planet. I seem to hold on to all these scraps for a book that never gets made. Ticket stubs, hotel receipts, maps in languages I can't read, brochures, pamphlets, business cards, numbers on match books *wink *wink. Better to have it on hand and share but not filling up my purses, wallets and falling out of journals.

So, here's a quickie for Bali, Japan, and Korea....

KOREAN ISLAND GET-A-WAY
Best kept secrets are better kept when not told but when have I ever been able to keep my mouth shut about tasty morsels?

A Korean get away for ex-pats and ESL teachers... not too far from Seoul but far enough away that it could feel like vacation. For starters this location is on a remote island with a great stretch of beach, mountains and temples to climb up, a few restaurants, and tons of cheap accommodations. You kind of have to be in the know to know about Deokjeokdo but lucky you, the info was passed on and experienced by yours truly.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deokjeokdo
How to get there? You can book online if you read Korean or if you google "Deokjeokdo" but it proved to be really difficult. You have to coordinate ferry departures from Incheon and a pick-up by the hotel once you reach the island. The ferry costs about 36,000 each way (not positive on that) and the times are 7:45am (arriving on the island at 9am), 9:30am, 12pm and the last one is 3pm(arriving at 4:20).

I'd recommend staying at KyeongLim Beach Hotel 032-831-2313.
Most rooms can fit a couple of people, we squeezed 4-6 and on a packed holiday wknd paid 100,000 for the room.
You can call them directly and Mr. Baik will pick you up at the ferry station (provided you tell him what time you'll arrive). It's a 15/20 minute ride from the docks to the hotel.

You can wire the deposit for your room directly to their bank from an ATM. Awesome, yes I know!

JAPAN
Now, Tokyo is amazing, yes, yes and yes but so was Kyoto. You must see both!

Tokyo, cab fare is expensive but you just have to suck it up. Stay near Shinjuku or Harajuku is what I'd recommend. The subway is a tad confusing but find yourself a native and make friends. ;-)
In Tokyo, I stayed in a very nice, moderately posh but well-priced hotel with clean, bright rooms and a glorious lobby. Internet service was downstairs and airport shuttles were awesome.

Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku
81 (3) 33753211
2-3-1 Yoyogi
Tokyo 151-0053
Japan

Kyoto, so quaint and beautiful. Delicate as a geisha and just as romantic and mysterious. I loved Kyoto so much I considered going to back to live. Temples are everywhere, great food, long dimly lit walkways over water, nods of elegance and history at every step. Decided to go for a more authentic experience and stayed at a Ryokan just off the main path of Gion across from a temple. The bus system was spectacular and got you everywhere with a lot of guidance and ease (grab a bus map at the main train station). Now, we didn't know how to go about booking a place to stay so we just showed up and went to the tourist's office on the 9th floor of the main train station. There you take a number and wait while looking through accommodation books. They book for you so you don't get lost in translation and then you head out to your destination via bus or taxi (the trains are used to get out of town, not around town really).
It's a little dingey and run-down but do-able and enjoyable.

Gion Fukuzumi tel (075) 541-5181.

It's in all the lonely planet books and websites, as it has been around for a bit and is totally well-priced and has a great location. The bathroom has a bath but it reminds me of a 1 star hotel in a coastal Italian town or a nice Korean love motel. There are rice/wood panel doors to a tea/balcony area for each room and you get tea service. THe mats are very comfortable and you can't beat the price for the location. Big thumbs up!

BALI

Ahhhh my love! As it is still fresh on my mind and on my skin, I must tell you that I hesitate to share the greatness. I would hate to not be able to stay at these places due to them being booked months in advance but I won't pretend to have that much power.
Villa Irene... $23 equivalent per person per night and totally worth it. Meals (lavish ones with oodles of desserts and beverages) are about 150,000 ($15).
http://www.realadventures.com/listings/1106079_Villa-Irene

So, I'm not the party party gal who wants to be out all night on vacation. I like to be tucked away at my own discretion and decide whether or not to be social with anything other than the sun and some fish.
Beach bound but not beerpong bound-
Jasri is awesome, it's near Candidasa and Tirtagangga. We stayed at homestay that was more like a villa with a made-to-order restaurant. The staff was helpful and friendly. THe food was delicious and served all day long. The accommodations were classic and beautiful. The only draw back was that I expected long walks on the beach but it's a black rock and pebble front and not the kind you can sunbathe on. There's a pool and also a five minute drive's away white sand beach, so no worries there! Beware of all the "friends" you'll meet who want to be your personal chauffeur, it's best to stick with recommendations or by your homestay's driver.


Best for last...
Ubud
Dewangga
(0361) 973-302
email: dewanggaubud@yahoo.com
http://www.dewangga-ubud.com
Ubud and the palatial grounds of Dewangga Bungalow. My mouth waters and my heart pounds at the sight of the word, "Dewangga." Surely, the most decadent accommodations ever... stayed in their best room for $40 per night and felt like a goddess dwelling within a Hindi shrine.

The complimentary continental breakfast and poor water pressure/heat were the only downfalls of this gorgeous, tucked away off the main road palace. Ponds, jungle, an art gallery, a golden retriever puppy named Oscar, an organic juice cafe next door and a top-rated restaurant across the street. This place was the stuff dreams are made of in comparison to the dumpy, jail house motif homestays down the road. Five minutes walk to the main market and 15 minute walk to the Monkey Jungle. If I stay in Ubud, which I will hopefully a thousand times over, I will only stay at Dewangga.



Ubud is the best time spent in Bali for bargain market shopping, dress shopping,anything shoppin, food, and being close to things you really want to see like the Volcano, the temples and of course, the monkey forest. Only an hour drive to the airport and so many fabulous massages to be had prior to departure. Yum yum!

Sedona Spa just outside Ubud...
Open daily 10am-9pm. Phone (0361) 975770
Go get a Tumeric scrub and massage followed by a flower bath at Sedona Spa for 140,000 ($13). The driving service (as it's a tad out of town by say, mmm, 5 minutes) to the spa is included but return is about 20,000 Indonesian Rupiah = $2.00. Sedona Spa is so so so awesome and accommodating. Make same day appointments or call in advance. Kelp scalp massages are included with the shampoo and blow dry. The manicures/pedicures are great but the polish is weak and they are really into applying it like a six year old with crayons and then erasing the mistakes with polish remover. You could be washed, rubbed, scrubbed and bathed for hours upon hours and for no more than $60. Making the decision to be pampered prior to my flight was what made my trip. A facial (70,000), mani/pedi (60,000 each), wash/massage/blow-dry (70,000)- ARE YOU KIDDING ME???? This all rounded out to be roughly $17!
Sedona Spa

Bali Bali Bali

Bali was such an incense soaked, mango infused, sticky heat swirl of no plan and no expectation. Good, organic, fresh fruit and raw sugary treats met my tongue. The smoke in the air from constant goddess and god offerings, temples every few inches, lush jungle, deep indigo waters, zipping scooters, water gardens, bright cyan skies, lightning streaked black nights, sunburns and palatial digs. Staying under the radar and sleeping by 10 nearly every night, I was awash in bliss and found myself dancing out into mornings with wealth in pocket and heart. Priceless trinkets were purchased for eye popping low costs and I don't know where to even begin describing everything that came with me in my suitcase. Spiders, astrologists, spirulina, Mades, Wayans, Ketuts, fire dances, bali coffee, geckos, thumb prick instruments, silk scarves and gorgeous dresses- are the words that I would use to trigger a search in my mind.

One morning, whilst in Ubud, we received a mistaken wake-up call at 4:30am and couldn't return to sleep. My bright eye- take on the the town at dawn and so we did. Roaming the vacant streets, traipsing down back alleys to find rice patties and rainbows and wet blades of grass.















We walked about 20 minutes from our Dewangga palace to the Monkey Forest and templed it up with the feisty little babies and mama monkeys. Passing out after no sleep for an hour nap, we awoke to a massage appointment and fresh flower bath. Mmmm and then on to a volcano where I found myself flying, literally and figuratively.

A Great Feat: Prayer with Footsteps

Every Moment, Every Minute, Every Step You Take
By Ella Lauser
(as seen in Bling Magazine, December Issue)


With the state of the world today, there is a strong current of doubt, complaint and negativity riding high. What can be done to reinstate hope within our hearts? Action, action as opposed to reaction.
Therefore, during this holiday time of year people are finding themselves reflecting upon their accomplishments, their setbacks, their goals and more often than not, the fears that still hold them back. Prayer occurs in great volume, purchases as well. It's the big 'make it count' crusade of the winter season with family, work, friends and yourself. The first step in making a dent on our endless to-do list is the hardest one to make and Christopher Howe is doing just that with every moment, every minute, every mile that he takes to make possible the impossible. Simply put, he is walking from Los Angeles, California in the United States to Brazil. It takes a few times of hearing this for it to actually sink in even as he says, "I'm walking to Brazil, walking- one foot in front of the other." Nope, still not quite fathoming this one. He's doing what?????

Through 10 countries, "I am walking, running, meditating, praying, transforming my life and yours 6,583 miles from Los Angeles to Brazil," he expresses with calm and joyful enthusiasm. A thousand questions spring to mind when he shares his vision and disbelief certainly rears its head but he has already crossed the border between the United States and Mexico. He has already walked nearly 250 miles in a month's time. He has spoken with migrants, pastors, police, and people from all walks of life. He walks through their streets and villages and highways for the sole purpose of eliminating borders and presenting possibility. All of this from a single vision during meditation and an endless supply of enthusiasm and ‘yes’es. He trained for months, sold his car, sold his belongings- bringing himself down to the bare minimum of what it is to be human. On October 5, 2008 he had a proper send off from the Elevate Film Festival where he began his walk for change and breaking down the concept of 'no'.

This seems so big and really when you think about it, it is with the tiniest effort that anything moves from miniscule to infinite. It is in the sheer will of doing it one step at a time, that the world changes in every shape, every form. Beautifully and strangely enough, he doesn't see this as one man's journey; he sees each step he takes as one step for man-kind. And yet, unlike our New Year's resolutions that are primarily based in egoistic terms and last for a week, a month tops- he is doing this incredibly simple and outlandish task for more than a year.

Christopher himself says it best…

What is easy in life is often the most difficult to overcome and what is difficult is often overcome with a single step. So get off the couch! Realize the difference you can make in this world. Realize the divine potential within you by acknowledging it in everyone and everything. Go beyond your expectations of yourself and get involved in something beyond measurement, beyond circumstances and reasons.

It certainly beckons many to stop asking why and start declaring- "Why not?" The hope behind his project is to inspire YOU to see that you can BE anything, create whatever life you can imagine.

Even Christopher considers his plight to be crazy and extreme, before he began the walk he constantly asked himself “What am I doing? I should just stop now, this is crazy!” How many times have you found yourself saying the same thing about dating someone new or applying for a new job? Take this dramatic example and apply it to your life. What about that intention of yours to take that life-long dream trip to India? What about the French lessons you always wanted to take? What about the 30lbs you’ve been intending to lose? As most of us know, it’s sometimes the first step that’s most important but it’s often the commitment to follow through that we lack. Baby-steps, right? Why not go big after you’ve attempted those first few simple goals?

Breaking down the patterns of negative thought- the 'I can'ts', 'I won'ts', and other debilitating mantras are exactly what Christopher Howe takes on minute by minute just as you do in your daily efforts. We are all challenged to keep going but what Christopher helps remind us is to go forth with intention, with love- at least that is his hope. Walking 2.7 miles per hour, eight to twelve hours per day, for over a year to inspire YOU, to challenge your beliefs about what's possible. The I Am Walking project shakes up everyone Christopher encounters, and all who know his plight, to go beyond our 'reason' as he says, “beyond our thinking, seeing what is possible in and above our complaints, above and outside our 'limitations', outside and through our 'boundaries'.” He is a walking, talking metaphor for every aspect of human life- moment by moment.


"So this is Christmas," as John Lennon said, "and what have you done?" What now will you do to go beyond yourself and your notion of what is possible?


For further information on Christopher and his I AM WALKING project visit www.iamwalking.org. He asks for prayers to be sent his way but once again, not for him but for you, for the world, for the change you wish to see. The site has information on his vision, his route as well as regularly uploaded videos, blogs, photos and the prayers that he receives.