A Little Spring In My Step

The blossoms are budding and dandelion bubbly wisps are floating on greener air. Night and day, Seoul certainly is during one or the other.
The seasons have only played a roll on film for me during my life and to taste the spring as it comes out from sleeping in real life is delicious. I relish my Sundays and the aimless walkabouts in the sun that seem to spin like a web around you capturing the light and the dust.

It could be Paris but the air is too dense and exhaust filled, I can imagine though that just beyond that barbedwire is the Seine if I squinch my nose and sing Edith Piaf quietly to myself.

Mmmmm wandering and having adventures that nudge you gently in and out of cafes for a cup of tea is about all I desire anyhow on my day of rest.

I can't manage to stop myself from looking up, looking down, looking all around and sometimes just closing my eyes and not looking at all.

Daylight and crisp cool breezes that make your heart curl up and cat nap are the magical mysteries of the 4 o'clock unsung hero of an hour. Wherever you may be find yourself around that bewitching dusky hour and take tea, will you?

Walking with an intention and then realizing that my sense of direction is non-existent when rambling is on the menu- well, that and some silly pants, provoked the heartiest laugh these streets have heard. Leaving the vacant streets for a bit more population and choices for dinner led me back away from Haebangcheong into Hongdae, atleast I know my metro when I loose my head and my feet in the atmosphere.

After all, as S. Williams says "I'm a star, this life's the suburbs, I commute."

My Oma introduction

We often walk around, closed down and hearts zipped, and I must say that I'm grateful that I've never had an easy time of it. Something about starting a new adventure makes you see that every moment is part of the adventure, even the idle bits. There's no starting line, the race has begun and it moves on with or without your awareness. Two months ago I watched the California coast disappear from my sight and said goodbye for a year or more. I was met with a tear or two but mostly a calm stillness because I was stepping into my waking life. No food and with a bit of sleep I still managed to be as chit chatty as ever.

On my flight from Tokyo to Seoul, I found myself next to a lady, Mrs. Kim, who was eager to smile and ask me where I was from. Using my Lonely Planet translation pocket book we were able to converse for the two hour period. Enough was understood- she had a daughter, I was a new English teacher, I was a vegetarian, she wanted to make me kimchi and pumpkin soup. Done and done, she gave me her husband's email address and phone number.
So after a month of being in Seoul, attaining a handphone (cell phone) we attempted broken translation and her 10 year old daughter attempted to utilize her non-conversational English-so we could make plans to meet. "You come Daejeon station from Seoul station. Okay?" was about all I got but still didn't know if she was saying "DaeJeon" nor where that was. Made my way to Seoul station ( my second time navigating the Seoul Metro solo) and bought a ticket to DaeJeon on the speedy KTX train. I forgot my ipod but found myself quickly reminded of my love of trains and enjoyed being completely present to the rainy countryside passing by.



After a bit of confusion as to where I was supposed to meet them upon arriving, I grabbed the attention of a teenager and put them on the phone with the Kim family. They came and found me and then proceeded to take me into the mountains where we dined on traditional Korean food in a cliffside teahouse/restaurant/museum.
It was gorgeous and lavish. I didn't understand that I was spending the night and had nothing, not even a toothbrush. They prepared for me, evening giving me 10-year-old Sang Eun's bed. I certainly wasn't prepared for the shower pot, literally a pot, and squatting on cold tile with a bucket was a new experience to be sure.



The bathing experience of a lifetime, didn't get that zestfully clean feeling but it was certainly entertaining. Only recently have homes had running water and this is the traditional way of bathing- even in the jjimjilbangs.

Grandma Kim loves her plants and has about 45 pots filled with all sorts of greenery. I love this picture, I snapped it as we were leaving the house Sunday morning without them knowing.


The Kim family quickly became my family, and I was informed that their house was "your house, me house, ok?" Mrs. Kim asked me to be her daughter and that I call her Oma, she was so amazing. Strangers on a plane, no more. She showed me her craft, calligraphy, and taught me to write my name.
We went to museums, she made me ridiculously delicious pumpkin soup. She even sent me home with a care package of food and medicine (she could hear that I was getting sick). What blessings! I'll be seeing them soon for the Flower Blossom Festival, and I can't wait.

Sang Eun and I at King Muryeong's burial site, the tree blossoms were just beginning to bud and it was so cold. She's quite a character, this face sums her up quite well.

Need a hot soak for your footsies... pull over in the middle town, hike up your pants and have a go. Sang Eun was a bit surprised by a few funky toes, needless to say she didn't do the dip.

A bit tuckered out after so much sightseeing, a jam-packed day of ancient royal tombs, countryside, an overwhelming sushi lunch, and museums.

Ok? OK!

Okay, Ok Young is the nicest man I've ever had the privilege of meeting. Born in 1928, a word traveler and skilled linguist, he and I began a beautiful friendship at the Korean Memorial War Museum and it transferred into delicious spoils fitting of a princess.

Jessica and I were to meet Ok for tea and it turned into a gourmet meal at one of the finest restaurants in Seoul. We had the private executive lounge dining room and were treated like royalty. Ok knows the award winning chef and had prepared a several course delectable meal. The luncheon became a party of five when Mr. Lee (C.E.O. of Ok's company) and his son, Mr. Lee unexpectedly came to join us. Straying from the menu a bit as Jess is not shellfish friendly and I was a strict vegetarian at the time, made for interesting segways and a little blushing but it was quite delicious after everything was said and done.
We did go for tea sometime later (three hours, wine pairings and several courses later) and he welcomed us into his home at the base of Namsan tower. The view was epic as was the home he built that was rather modern and pristine. Inside we found ourselves cozy and warmly lit by 4 o'clock sunshine. It was quaint and modest and we were so grateful for his hospitality that never wavered.

It's nice to have a genuinely grand grandfather here in Korea, he's wiser than grandfather time and is far more generous.

He kept saying he felt "like number one", look at his little face- priceless! It's over, I love him.

And for the record....
It's too cute not to share, so here's an email from Ok shortly after our afternoon delight:

Dear Ella,

Thank you for your wonderful comment on our lunch. I hope Jessica enjoyed too. Did you get to your friend on time?
I have enjoyed every minute of your company.

I think you can do much better as far as your circumstance is concrened. Make use of the situation you in. I might help to you here and there. I would like to see you someday Embassador to Korea. Reportedly we would have Lady American Embassador soon. You are so young and smart, why not dream of, though extraordinary.

Again thank you for your warm mail and I will be happy to answear your questions on Korean history and culture any time.

All the best,

Ok

Some tracks, some tears

So I just returned from an amazing venture... Laid down some vocals at MTV in South Korea and decided that after a job well done the producer, engineer, and liaison extraordinaire should be wined and dined.

What should have only lasted as atleast a two hour tour turned into sake, soju, Hite, too much sashimi, and a tradition of oddity- Tuna Tears. Yes, fluorescent pink tuna tears tea that the chef poured for us personally.


New friends, new opportunities, and more talk about that thing called music.

Today is a day I lift my cup and say drinketh, this life is delicious!