Priceless Moments at Jjimjilbang

Ysonghay (pronounced "ee-song-hay" =awkward), no word in any language could quite capture the absurdity of my evening yesterday... and yet it was equally endearing.

Headed to my regular jjbang spot after a cold and blustery day of brunch and ice tiptoe-heel walking with the plan of getting scrubbed and massaged. Little did I know that an even greater treat awaited me. I waddled into Chereville (my jjbang) and paid for my locker key, took a good ten minutes to de-layer myself and walked into the shower/bath house. I had just placed my wrist tag number on the scrub wait list and waltzed over to the showers, and was in a hurry to shower down so I could get warm in the baths. It was so jam-packed as it was Lunar New Year's Eve and a Saturday that I had to stand ass-naked waiting in full view of about 60 Korean women and children.



Finally, got a shower and then...... tap tap tap went a finger on my bare bum and a high voice squealed "Ellllllllllaaaa Teacherrrrrrrrrrr!" I slowly turned around to find my favorite little pain in the butt (pun unintended), Won Je hee, smiling up at me. I stumbled over my words and stutterred "Jee Jee Jee- Je Hee." It was so bizarre to see such a familiar face on top of a very naked child's body. I see her everyday and she's like family but this was definitely, YSONGHAY! My first reaction was to hug her and I bent down only to realize that I was so naked and that would be so inappropriate so I quickly redirected my hands to her little face.

I was so happy to see her and it wasn't so terribly strange but I wanted to normalize it as much as possible and not make her feel like there was anything wrong with the human body. Having a western physique, I am noticeably different and stand out, but to her it was like a whole other thing. She walked me, hand in hand, over to her mother who was in the first of the baths and she just about died of mortification. Here we were, surrounded in an environment that we normally were very comfortable and not self-conscious in, but suddenly very aware of how very very naked we were.

I don't know how it just worked but instead of covering myself, which I think would be the most typical reaction, I just acted casually and slowly stepped into the bath. We talked for ages, attempting to have a broken English heart to heart and all the while gingerly adjusting our bodies deeper into the water so as not to have nipples and bits in plain sight.


Only in Korea, could you run the risk of your students seeing you naked (and their mother too). I braved it and it was actually, so fine. After getting scrubbed, I went in to the jjbang area (the saunas) and met up with the whole family. They bought me an orange and some ice cream. It was very sweet, still a tad awkward, but sweet.

Je hee was the most timid I've ever seen her to be although she was still just as inquisitive as ever. At first I thought it was because she was marveling at how different my body is but then I realized it was more that we are out of the typical "English" environment and we were in a Korean setting, she wasn't prepared to be around with me. She never-the-less followed me around like a puppy and would seek me out in every room/massage chair.

Eventually, after running around with her brother, she found me in the Himalayan salt jjbang room and she laid down next to me, placing her head in the crook of my arm. Chit-chatting ensued and I asked her what her favorite thing was this past year and without hesitation she retorted, "Ella."
I could've just died right there, it was so genuine and loving. It was the first non-dramatic remark I've heard her utter and it was the most profoundly touching thing I've heard. Right on cue, her brother ran in and shouted, "Kaja! (let's go) and they were off. "Goodbye Ella Teacher," they shouted in unison, which made me blush as all the relaxing people stared at me startled.

I just laid back down and closed my eyes, smiling through the fifth round of awkwardness. I found myself thinking about the fact that I had no clue what coming to Korea meant when I arrived and I may very well be puzzled by it for many years but I now know one thing for certain. This child, this little sprite of spunk, Je hee, is undoubtedly one of the reasons I came. I love her so much and she has taught me more then I think I've taught her.

At the moment, I find myself chuckling with curiosity at what Je hee is going to share at circle time next week... "I saw Ella Teacher at jjimjilbang and I saw her boobies." I wouldn't put it past her, she's keen on consistently asking me the word for breasts, haha and she'll repeat the word "boobies" to herself quietly for a few minutes afterwards. Ha! O well, here's to little sisterhoods across the globe that see through awkward moments and to the word "boobies."